UPDATE:

I have ordered and installed the hotend. Now in process of installing and configuring.

If purchased a folgertech kit for kossel 2020 and am also in process of building it.

See http://myfolgertechkossel2020.blogspot.com/

After weeks of hacking and troubleshooting, i was able to partially tune my printer.

I found that two oof the digital endstops were defective causing issues it being able to calculate home.

I also had to hack several more variables in the configuration.h file.

I was getting disgusted a bit with my build and gave in and purchased the FOLGERS KOSSEL PRINTER on Febuary 10 2015.

We will see how long it takes fornthem to deliver and i will document its building as well.

Be my build seems to be coming along fine and it am able to get printer to home and draw with and ink pen on a sheet of paper.

Here is a video of what it can do so.

Mounted LCD Panel power switch and arduino / ramps board

I mounted LCD Panel power switch and arduino / ramps board on front panel.

IT WORKS!!!

ATX Power Supply mounted in bottom back of printer.

Installed atx pc power supply in back of printer. Cut out back panel to fit PSU.

Repurchase of Sunkee 100x Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connector 2.54mm

I purchased Sunkee 100x Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connector 2.54mm on Amazon, alon with several other items - FULFILLED BY AMAZON - all of the items were incorrect and the female pin connectors were NOT EVEN IN THE BOX.

So I had to purchase from Ebay - 

Sold by dfcash55

Sunkee 100x Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connector 2.54mm

In transit - from minnesota. eta Estimated delivery Monday, Feb 9, 2015

incorrect 

I have to have these to conectruct my cables from endstop and motors. I will be using cat5 plenum for this. Double up on the pairs for the motors.

Arduino ramps 1.4 mounted to the atx PSU

I have mounted my arduino and ramps 1.4 board on top of my atx psu. I did this earlier to save room

I dont think I am going to have a problem with room anymore with the MDF Board structure!!

Ok so with all of the arms built and mounted to plywood it lookED like this....

I had extreme difficulty getting the holes in the plywood to match the rest of the printer.

The plywood didnt allow accurate hole drilling and it chipped badly.

I found several people on the internet whom had used MDF board. I was more expensive and I didn't want to goto the expense...I AM GLAD I DID!!!

MDF is AWESOME!!! this is my design the wood frame part!!

There is ample room underneath the print bed for all my electronics and I also built a front part to install my lcd control panel in!!

I AM STILL WAITING FOR MY -

Sunkee 100x Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connector 2.54mm 

from ebay to create my 4 position connections from motors to control board and 2 pin connections to the endstops.;

Then will begin the wiring phase.;

Building the printer rails BELT ISSUES COMING OFF!!

Well I staying up late last night, again. I built all three sides of the printer rails. Bottom motor mount, belt spreader pulley and upper end pulley.

I connected the belt to the carriage.

End pulley connected

Motor end and belt spreader

MOTION UP AND DOWN WAS SMOOTH - BUT BELTS FALLING OFF THE END PULLEY - UPON MOVING THE CARRIAGE UP AND DOWN - TWO TURNS OF THE END PULLEY!!

ON ALL THREE SIDE ASSEMBLIES!!

I tried flipping the motor gear  - SAME thing - keeps coming off the end pulley at top.....

I then read  - http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock#Belts

Belts

It can be challenging to get good belt tension. You should be able to pluck nice bass tones on the belts. Here is Johann's tensioning method:

• Make sure you don't have a flange on the outer idler bearing (the one that is facing you).
• Put timing belt on motor pulley and idler bearings.
• Push idler end up as far as possible with one hand.
• Remove belt from idler bearings.
• Push idler end up 3 mm more and tighten screws on smooth rod.
• Put timing belt on idler again. It will be very tight.
• The idler bearings are tilted 2 degrees upwards, so your belt should not fall off even though the outer bearing has no flange.
• If the belt does fall off, reduce belt tension slightly, or print a new idler end with increased upward tilt...

Important note - last two statements - 

• The idler bearings are tilted 2 degrees upwards, so your belt should not fall off even though the outer bearing has no flange.
• If the belt does fall off, reduce belt tension slightly, or print a new idler end with increased upward tilt.

I did not know there was a slight angle - also noticed the screw holes where the endstop will mount - I INSTALLED ALL THREE END PULLEYS UPSIDE DOWN!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!

Flipped them 180 degrees AND WORKS LIKE A CHARM - belts not coming off!!!

Assemblying the Airtripper Bowden Extruder -

Beginning to build the airtripper extruder body modified to accept an M5 4mm pushfit connector and the two mounting holes were sized down to 5mm as well.

Had to reference this site for similar assembly instructions - http://airtripper.com/367/3d-printer-surgery-4-extruder-upgrade-part-3/

It should look just like this one when complete.





When I assembled mine if found a potential issue - seems like my shaft is too short because the small bearing shown in other models is pressed onto the shaft - I just moved the pinch bearing further down the shaft so that it is in line with the lever with bearing to pinch the filament.
Hopefully will work.

Here is a youtube video of how HOPEFULLY it will work - video by the creator - Johann Rocholl

received tracking number to screw kit by TrDprinting - PRETTY DARN FAST - on a saturday!!

Rough picture of boards cut and tracks on.

Here is a rough image of what the cut boards look like..

Will have to add about 6 inches to the bottom to hold all my electronics and wiring...

ATX PC Power Supply, Carriage arms

While waiting on my screw kit from TridPrinting I did the following:

Connected 2 X 12V  ( P2 Connector )connections from an extra ATX PC Power supply, I had laying around the shop, These goto the two 12V INPUT connectors on the Ramps 1.4 Board.

WORKS PERFECTLY!!

Crossed out PS On connector to GND on the 13th and 14th pins on the ATX 20 pin moles connector.

Super glued Carriage arms so they were completely flat on both ends.

Did test mount of the Idler Pully bearings and Motor mount with screws I had laying around the shop.

These will be replaced once screw kit comes in......

Ok i purchased this kit
http://www.tridprinting.com/BOM/Kossel-Legacy/

Nuts, Bolts, Screws Kit
$28.95 + 3.95 shipping = $32.90

I searched the net and this is the closest i could find.. ( the rest ship.from.china or hong kong!!!)....income potential here??

Nuts - (108) m3

Nuts - (3) m4

Jam Nuts - (24) m3

Nyloc Nuts - (16) m3

Washers - (45) m3

Fender Washers - (5) m3

Screws - (61) m3 8mm

Screws - (12) m3 10mm

Screws - (6) m2.5 12mm

Screws - (23) m3 12mm

Screws - (33) m3 20mm

Screws - (2) m4 20mm

Screws - (19) m3 35mm

1 Euro Connector

1 Long Hex Allen Wrench
(For autoleveling)

Rostock Printer Structure Layout

ANOTHER great reference!!

Going to follow this guy's setup!!



http://3dprintingindustry.com/2013/03/18/rostock/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UI94EsSUWMw

ITS HERE!!! ITS HERE!!! ITS HERE!!!

Mailman just delivered my

Rostock Modified Printed Parts Kit 3D Delta Printer PLA Chromed Rods Reprap KIT!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rostock-Modified-Printed-Parts-Kit-3D-Delta-Printer-PLA-Chromed-Rods-Reprap-/291321936358?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43d423f9e6

I ordered Yellow - printed parts look AWESOME!!!

Time to unbox and lay it all out..

Loading Firmware on arduino ramps 1.4 and my lcd display

I had EXTREME difficulty following and configuring the default marlin firmware -
http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock#Firmware

I tried till the wee hours in the morning but I kept getting cascading compile error in the arduino ide.

I finally found a elegant solution - followed instructions on webpage -
http://reprapandme.blogspot.com/2014/02/repetier-firmware.html

links to - Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 0.91 Rev 8
http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/

SUPER SMOOTH - had my AGPtek® RAMPS 1.4 Control Board + 5X A4988 Stepstick Driver Module for 3D Printer RepRap and [Sintron] LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller
loaded with firmware in 10 minutes!!!

http://youtu.be/EV24PxMXYRQ

_______________________________________________________________________________

Rostock 3d Printer Frame

I have researched several different types of structures to build.

I have settled on KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid - concept.

This is the most simple one I can find. -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34359



12mm this Plywood
12mm 0.472441 - half inch plywood from lowes should work fine.

Solid works model -